Find Used Cars Online – Used cars for Sale:

Sometimes when people want to buy a good pre-owned car for a low price they go to government-sponsored automobile auctions. Because the government is not allowed to make a profit on the cars it auctions off, there are plenty of opportunities for people to find incredible deals at government car auctions.

Most of the cars sold at government auctions have been seized from people who for one reason or another were unable to make payments on their cars. These cars are then repossessed by the lending institutions or banks that provided the automobile loans that were used to buy the cars in the first place. Other automobiles that are sold at government auctions come from people who failed to pay their income tax or other taxes and do not have the cash to pay the government what is owed. The government then liquidates part of the tax cheat’s estate and takes possession of items such as cars. A third way cars come to government auctions is if they belong to a criminal and are taken by the government as a result of a criminal procedure. Sometimes the automobiles sold at government-sponsored car auctions are old fleet cars that were used by the various branches of government.

With the exception of the government fleet cars, it is often difficult to ascertain information regarding the history or a car being sold at a government auction. Often, there is no way a person can find out who owned the car before it was seized, why the car was seized and is now in the hands of the government, and what the maintenance record on the car is. While it may be possible to do a background check based on a car’s vehicle identification number (VIN), it is often difficult to get a really good picture of the condition of a car that is sold at government automobile auction.

In the days and weeks leading up to some government-sponsored car auctions, customers are allowed to examine the cars, trucks, SUVs and automobiles that will be sold at the auction. However, other government-sponsored automobile auctions where seized and repossessed vehicles are sold do not let people examine the cars closely before they are sold.

Car dealerships often send representatives to government auctions in order to buy pre-owned cars at low prices. These auto dealerships will then usually sell the cars they buy at car auctions for prices much higher than those they paid for the vehicles.

Like all auctions, customers at government-sponsored automobile auctions must place bids on how much they are willing to pay for the car on the auction block. Whoever makes the highest bid for a car sold at a car auction gets the car. While it is next to impossible to get an automobile loan for the exact amount one pays for a car at a government-sponsored vehicle auction, it is possible to get a loan for a specified amount before one heads off to the auction.

It is not unusual for high-end and luxury cars to be sold at government-sponsored car auctions, although most of the cars sold are the normal trucks, cars and SUVs one sees everyday on the road. Visit Best Car Deales Blog for the best deals on used cars

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It won’t be a bargain if you have to spend a ton of money on repairs, so learn how to spot a lemon.

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The focus needs to shift from giving outdated and ineffective advice to addressing the “actual” and “specific” charges. Are they legitimate charges? Can they be justified by industry guidelines?

Now car repair estimates can be confusing. So let’s break it down to get a better idea if your auto repair shop is billing you appropriately.

First, a glossary of terms is in order, as the auto industry has a language of its own…

Aftermarket Parts: parts not made by the manufacturer.

MSRP: Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price

OEM: Original Equipment Manufacturer. Manufacturer approved parts designed specifically for your vehicle.

TSBs: Technical Service Bulletins. Notes and instructions provided by the manufacturer for known and specific concerns(they are not recalls).

Flat Fees: services such as alignments that don’t get broken down into parts, tax, labor

Miscellaneous Charges: these can include, but are not limited to shop supplies – rags, chemicals, hazardous waste disposal fees, waste oil …etc.

Labor Rate: a repair center’s hourly charge to service your vehicle

Labor Time: the amount of time or hours determined that it will take to fix your vehicle

Labor Description: the step-by-step written details of repairs and/or services

Ok, let’s look at the Anatomy of an Auto Repair Estimate:

There are six basic components to a car repair estimate

1) Customer/Vehicle Information
2) Parts
3) Labor
4) Miscellaneous Charges
5) Flat Fees
6) Summary of Charges

Customer and Vehicle Information

Using a generic “top down” style estimate, the top portion simply contains your personal information and your vehicle’s specifics: year, make, model, mileage…etc, as well as your request or concern.

We also want find the shop’s labor rate. The labor rate is critical in determining if you paid too much. Most repair centers don’t list the labor rate. We’ll discuss why shortly.

Auto Parts

Parts are listed usually with a brief description, as well as the quantity, and the price. There are three types of parts: OEM (parts made by or for a manufacturer). These are the parts installed by a dealer, although many local shops use OEM parts too.

Aftermarket parts are non OEM parts, and there are various degrees of quality, depending on the brand and where they’re made – China versus USA, for example.

Then there are Used parts purchased from a salvage yard.

To determine if you paid too much for parts, first find out what type of parts are being used. With OEM parts, you don’t want to pay more than MSRP, although most people do without realizing it. Premium aftermarket parts are similarly priced across brands, although beware not to pay more than MSRP, which again, many folks do. Used part prices are all over the place, so pick the price in the middle.

Auto Repair Labor

Labor is billed in tenths. So 1.0 equals 1 hour. 1.5 equals an hour and a half.

Labor rates range from $60 to $100 per hour at local repair shops and $80 to $140 per hour at the dealer level. Labor times are based off established industry guidelines, which are frequently abused.

If you don’t see the shop’s labor rate posted on the car repair invoice, ask your service center for the rate. Repair shops can manipulate the labor rate (among other things) with a labor matrix. Matrix pricing is a complicated and ethically questionable practice discussed at length in RepairTrust literature. What you need to know is that you can pay as high as $150 per hour rather than the posted labor rate of $105 per hour.

To ensure that you’re being charged properly, you’ll want to multiply the number of hours billed (which is also often not posted) by the shop’s labor rate.

Most labor descriptions are poorly written and difficult to understand. So ask questions.

Here’s a “clear” labor description for a 30,000 mile service on a Toyota Camry.

Performed 30,000 mile service per customer request, and in accordance with manufacturer guidelines. Changed oil and filter, installed new air filter, cabin filter and performed all necessary tests, checks, and procedures, including road test (miles 30,123 – 30,125). Performed lubrication services and confirmed proper vehicle operation. Set tire pressures, and checked fluids, belts and hoses. Note: vehicle is pulling slightly left. Needs alignment

Miscellaneous Charges

The bulk of your car repair invoice will be parts and labor, but we can’t forget about Miscellaneous Charges. These charges can include, but are not limited to, shop supplies – rags, chemicals, hazardous waste, disposal fees, waste oil …etc. The latter of these may be billed out separately in a summary at the bottom of your repair invoice.

Very few of these “extras” are actually used during regular repairs. Miscellaneous charges are calculated off the amount of labor hours billed, not the amount of miscellaneous items used.

Flat Fees

Flat fees can be another very tricky area. Flat fees are services, such as an alignment, which don’t get broken down into parts, tax and labor. This makes it difficult to determine the real and fair price. On the plus side, most flat fees are competitively priced.

Be warned however, another term for Flat Fee is called Menu Selling. In other words, you might see Tune Up: $99.99 or Transmission Flush: $89.99. Follow your manufacturer’s recommendations only, not a dealer’s or repair shop’s menu.

Summary of Charges

The last part of an auto repair estimate is the summary of charges. It’s usually found in the bottom right hand corner of the invoice. Check it against the charges above to ensure that it all adds up mathematically, as well as logically.

This basic estimate outline may differ from your particular invoice, which may have other categories such as “Sublet” or “HazMat.”

A sublet charge is added when your auto repair shop uses another vender to fix or repair your car, such as a glass company that replaces your windshield.

A HazMat charge may include waste oil or other disposal fees. Just make sure that the charges are warranted, as again, they too are often calculated off the labor time rather than actual need.

In sum, understanding the “actual” charges, asking the right questions, and breaking down your auto repair costs is the best way to avoid paying excessive car repair prices.

About Author

Ted Olson is the founder of RepairTrust – a website dedicated to help the auto consumer avoid the pitfalls of the automotive industry. Click Car Repair Prices to learn more…

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com – Auto Repair Estimates And Car Repair Prices – The Real Information To Avoid Car Repair Scams

There are two ratings on car battery: CCA and RC. CCA means Cold Cranking Amps and RC means Reserve Capacity. When you replace it, be sure to buy one with the same properties as the initial one. Usually, these ratings are mentioned on the battery sticker.

There are a series of tips you should know in order to take good care of your car battery. First of all, remember to maintain your engine properly. Because an engine in good shape will start easily, it will induce less stress on the battery at startup.

Regularly check your battery with the aid of a specialized load test. Its results will tell you if you need to replace it or not.

Because dirt and corrosion of the battery’s terminals can lead to its premature wear, make sure these contacts are clean. Use an old toothbrush or a bristle brush to clear the terminals. Use a combination of baking soda and water to clean them effectively.

Remember to check the water level every few months. When needed (if the water level is below the refill hole), add distilled water (under no circumstance use tap water, as it will corrode the battery’s terminals).

If the energy level of your car’s battery is low, you can boost it. It is a relatively easy procedure, but if not done properly, it can cause a lot of damage to you and your car.

Connect the (+) clamps of the new and the old battery.

After that, connect the (-) clamp to the negative terminal of the good battery, while connecting the other negative clamp to the car frame or a grounded metal element (you can use the engine block) on the vehicle with the dead battery. Remember; do not connect the final clap to the dead battery’s negative terminal.

Leave the cables attached this way for a couple of minutes without starting the engine. Do not crank the motor more than 10 seconds. After the engine of the car with the dead battery has started, remove the clamps in the exact reverse order. It is best not to let either of the clamps touch each other as this will cause sparks.

When working with the electrical systems of your car, wear protective elements (goggles and isolating gloves). Besides the high electricity levels a car battery produces, it has hazardous acids inside as well as other gases which can cause serious injuries.

Watch the video related to car battery replacement

Learn how to remove a car battery so it can be replaced withexpert car tips in this free online automotive repair video clip. Expert: William Myers Contact: www.austinsubaru.com/en_US/ Bio: William Myers has been a Senior Master Technician for Subaru since 1998. He is an ASE Certified Master Technician and L1 Advanced Level Specialist. Filmmaker: EV studios

Help answer the question about car battery replacement

Car battery replacement?
I believe i haev a bad battery, not a bad alternator (hopefully). Anyways, i would like to take my battery out and test it, however, i cant even tell where the battery is. The positive and negitive connections seem to be lead to the top of the engine for access, but it seems like the battery is under it all. The fuse box and the air filter seem to be on top of it. Is anyone famliar with this setup? How do i get my battery out? Thanks
It is a 1999 Crystal Sebring JXI Convertable.
The car wont start without a jump either.

About Author

Dennis runs Car Dealer Check a website dedicated to Car Dealer Reviews and informing people about bad car dealers.